Eating and Drinking on Carriacou's Beaches: Plan Before You Go

Carriacou does beach food on a smaller and slower scale than the south coast of Grenada. There are no long strips of bars, many beaches have no facilities at all, and much of what you eat or drink has come across by boat. That is part of the island's appeal, but it means a beach day here works best if you plan food and water before you leave Hillsborough or Tyrrel Bay.

Hurricane Beryl struck Carriacou and Petite Martinique in July 2024, damaging homes, businesses and beachside buildings. Recovery has been ongoing, and some bars and restaurants have rebuilt while others are still closed or have changed. Treat any specific place you have read about as "check before you go", and use this guide for the patterns that hold across the island.

Where food and drink are usually available

Hillsborough, the main town, has small supermarkets, bakeries, rum shops and local eateries, plus the town jetty; the ferry from Grenada has been docking at Tyrrel Bay, so check where it calls before you travel. It is the best place to stock up on water, snacks and cash before a beach day, and the place most likely to have food early in the morning.

Tyrrel Bay, on the south-west coast, is the island's main yacht anchorage and has historically had a cluster of bars, restaurants and small shops serving sailors, along with a boatyard. When yachts are in, there is more choice; in the quieter months, fewer places may be open.

Paradise Beach at L'Esterre, facing Sandy Island, is the beach most visitors head for and has traditionally had a small number of beach bars and food spots under the trees, along with water taxis to Sandy Island. After Beryl, what is open has changed, so ask your accommodation the day before.

Elsewhere, from Anse La Roche to Petite Carenage in the north, assume there is nothing for sale and bring everything you need.

Packing list for a no-facilities beach

Sandy Island, Anse La Roche and the northern beaches are among the loveliest in the state of Grenada precisely because nothing is there. That also means no shade structures, no toilets, no bins and no shop.

• Water: at least 1.5 litres per person for a half day, more if you are walking to Anse La Roche in the heat.
• Food: rotis, bakes, fruit and snacks bought in Hillsborough or Tyrrel Bay that morning.
• A cooler or insulated bag with ice from a shop if you want cold drinks.
• Shade: a beach umbrella or a light sheet; Sandy Island has limited shade after the hurricanes.
• Reef-safe sunscreen, hats and a cover-up.
• A rubbish bag: everything you bring comes back with you.
• Cash: for the water taxi, which you usually pay on return, and anything you buy on the way.
• Water shoes for rocky entries and the walk down to Anse La Roche.

What is on the plate in Carriacou

Carriacou cooking leans heavily on the sea. Fish, lambie and, in season, lobster are the staples, cooked simply: grilled, stewed, curried or in soups. Lobster has a closed season from 1 May to 31 August under Grenada's fisheries rules, so in summer you should not expect fresh lobster, and it is fair to ask where any lobster on offer has come from.

Rotis, bakes, fried chicken and rice dishes are the everyday fast food, and you will find them in Hillsborough and around Tyrrel Bay. Fruit and vegetables are more limited than on Grenada because the island is drier and much produce is shipped in, so choice can vary from day to day.

Drinks follow the same pattern as on the mainland, with Carib, Stag and local rum everywhere, plus Jack Iron, the overproof white rum closely tied to Carriacou's celebrations. Fresh coconuts are sometimes available from vendors and at beach spots.

Petite Martinique: a different scale again

Getting there. Ferries that serve Carriacou continue to Petite Martinique on many sailings, and small boats cross from Windward on the north-east coast of Carriacou. Check the schedule for the day you want to travel, because sailings are less frequent than on the Grenada to Carriacou leg.

Small and self-contained. Petite Martinique is a small island with a seafaring community and only a handful of guesthouses, shops and bars. It is reached by ferry or boat from Carriacou.

Fewer options, so plan. Visitors on a day trip should bring water and snacks, and ask in advance whether anywhere will be serving lunch.

Local cooking. Fish and seafood dominate, often cooked to order, so allow time.

Respect the pace. Many businesses are family-run; opening hours can change with the boats, the weather and community events.

Recovery after Beryl. Petite Martinique was also hit hard in 2024, and some businesses were affected. Check what is operating before you travel.

When the island cooks for a crowd

Carriacou festivals are when food appears in quantity, with stalls, community cooks and plenty of Jack Iron. The Carriacou Regatta Festival around the start of August brings sailing races, beach events and food to Hillsborough and other bays. The Carriacou Maroon and String Band Music Festival, usually held in late April, celebrates the island's African heritage, and the traditional maroon is itself a communal food offering. In December, the Parang Festival fills evenings with string bands and food stalls.

Village occasions such as boat launches, tombstone feasts and saracas, offerings of food shared with the community and the ancestors, are part of the distinctive culture of Carriacou. They are community events rather than tourist attractions; if you are invited, accept graciously and follow the lead of your hosts.

Dates for festivals shift from year to year and some events have been scaled back since Hurricane Beryl, so confirm dates with local organisers or your accommodation before planning a trip around them.

Getting to the beaches with lunch in hand

Carriacou has route buses and taxis, but buses run mainly along the main roads between Hillsborough, Windward, Tyrrel Bay and L'Esterre, and become infrequent in the late afternoon and on Sundays. For beaches away from the main road, a taxi or a rental vehicle is the practical choice, and it makes carrying a cooler much easier.

Water taxis are the usual way to reach Sandy Island, leaving from Paradise Beach and from Hillsborough. Agree the price, the currency and the pick-up time before you leave, and pay when you are collected. Take your food with you on the boat; there is nothing to buy once you land.

If you are walking to Anse La Roche, carry your food and water in a backpack rather than a cooler bag, and keep the load light. The path is steep in places, and the climb back up in the afternoon heat is the hardest part of the day.

Mistakes that spoil a Carriacou beach day

Most disappointments on Carriacou beaches come from expecting the south coast of Grenada on a much smaller, drier island where supplies arrive by boat.

• Assuming you can buy lunch at Sandy Island or Anse La Roche; you cannot.
• Arriving at Paradise Beach late in the afternoon expecting a kitchen to be open.
• Not taking enough water for the walk to Anse La Roche, which is hot and steep in places.
• Relying on cards; many small places are cash only and ATMs are concentrated in Hillsborough.
• Leaving rubbish on islets with no bins, where it washes into the sea.
• Forgetting to confirm a pickup time with the water taxi from Sandy Island.
• Not checking ferry times back to Grenada if you are on a day trip; missing the boat changes your plans.

Frequently asked questions