A Cove-Hopping Day on Grenada's South Coast: Route, Timing and Kit

The south coast of Grenada packs very different beaches into a short distance. In a single day you can swim at a long west-facing beach near the airport, float in a sheltered bay among villas and finish at a palm-fringed crescent in the countryside of St David, without spending more than an hour or so in a car in total.

Doing it well is mostly about order and timing: which cove to visit when the light, shade and water are at their best, where to eat, and how to move between them on narrow roads. This route assumes you have a hire car or a taxi for the day. Adjust it to the season and the conditions you find on the morning.

The route at a glance

A full day that works for most people, starting from the Grand Anse or True Blue area:

1. 8:00am — Magazine Beach. Start on the west-facing side while the water is at its clearest and the trees at the back still give shade. Walk the sand, swim and snorkel near the rocks at the southern end.
2. 10:00am — Lance aux Epines. Drive a few minutes east to the sheltered bay among the villas for a calm mid-morning swim, ideal if you have small children.
3. 11:30am — Head east. Drive through St George parish into St David, around 30 to 40 minutes depending on traffic.
4. 12:30pm — Lunch. Eat at La Sagesse if the beach restaurant is open, or in a village on the way.
5. 1:30pm — La Sagesse. Spend the hottest part of the day under the palms, swim if the sea is calm and walk to the salt pond.
6. 4:00pm — Drive back west, allowing for after-work traffic.
7. 5:30pm — Sunset at Magazine or Morne Rouge, depending on how far you want to drive.

Why the order matters

The route follows the sun. West-facing Magazine is best early, before midday glare and before the trade wind ruffles the water. Lance aux Epines, protected inside its bay, stays calm through the late morning. La Sagesse has the best natural shade of the three, thanks to its palms, which makes it the most comfortable place to be in the early afternoon when the open beaches are at their hottest.

Returning west in the late afternoon puts you back on the Caribbean side for sunset, when the sun drops into the sea directly in front of Magazine, Pink Gin and Morne Rouge. The east-facing south-east coast loses its light earlier and gives you no sunset over water.

If you reverse the route, you meet La Sagesse in the morning, which suits birdwatchers who want the salt pond at dawn, but you will be on the west coast in the midday sun.

Driving and parking cove by cove

Magazine. Parking near the restaurant end at the southern part of the beach; busy on Sundays. Keep valuables out of sight.

Lance aux Epines. Narrow residential roads with very limited roadside parking. Park where you do not block gates, and walk to the beach by a public access path.

La Sagesse. Turn off the main road in St David and follow local directions; the beach has traditionally been a short walk from the road. Parking and access may have changed since the Six Senses resort opened in 2024.

Morne Rouge. Limited parking near the steps at the bottom of Quarantine Point Road, crowded on weekend afternoons.

Taxis. If you hire a taxi for the day, agree the total price, the stops and the finishing time in advance. Many drivers are happy to wait at each beach for an agreed fee.

Driving in Grenada: what to know

Most cove-hoppers use a hire car. A few essentials:

• Traffic drives on the left. Roads are narrow, winding and often without pavements, with sharp bends on hillsides.
• Visitors need a local driving permit, normally arranged through the car hire company on presentation of a valid licence from home. Confirm the current requirement and fee when booking.
• Route buses stop suddenly and frequently to pick up and drop off passengers. Give them room.
• Deep open drains run alongside many roads. Pull over carefully.
• Watch for pedestrians, dogs and goats, especially around villages and schools.
• Avoid driving after dark if you are unfamiliar with the roads; many are unlit.
• Allow extra time between about 7:30am and 9am and 3:30pm and 6pm, when commuting and school traffic is heaviest.

The cove-hopper's packing list

Facilities are uneven along the route, so pack the car properly before setting off:

• A cool box with plenty of water and some snacks.
• A beach umbrella or sun shelter for Magazine and Lance aux Epines, where shade is limited.
• Mask, snorkel and fins, and water shoes for rocky edges and urchins.
• Reef-safe sunscreen, hats and light long-sleeved tops.
• Insect repellent for the salt pond at La Sagesse and for sunset, when sandflies appear.
• Two towels per person, so one stays dry for the drive between beaches.
• Cash in EC dollars in small notes for snacks, cold drinks and village shops.
• A dry bag for phones and keys, and a bag for wet swimwear.
• Rubbish bags; not every beach has bins.

Variations on the route

With young children. Swap La Sagesse for a long lunch and a second swim at Lance aux Epines or Morne Rouge, keeping the drive short and the water flat.

On a Sunday. Replace the afternoon in St David with a water taxi to Hog Island for the barbecue and music, then return for sunset at Magazine.

For snorkellers. Spend longer at the rocks at Magazine in the morning and add Hog Island, which has some of the easiest snorkelling on the south coast.

In winter swell. If a shore break is running at Magazine, start at Morne Rouge instead, which usually stays calm.

Without a car. Pick two coves rather than four, use taxis with agreed fares and pick-up times, and avoid long walks along roads without pavements.

Eating along the way

Food is the part of the day most likely to go wrong, simply because beach restaurants on the south coast keep irregular hours and some close on certain weekdays. Magazine has a beachfront restaurant at its southern end, and the marinas around Prickly Bay and the Lance aux Epines peninsula have bars and restaurants open to the public. At La Sagesse, check before relying on the beach restaurant.

The villages of St David on the way east are a good fallback. Small shops and snackettes sell rotis, bakes, fried fish and cold drinks, usually for far less than resort prices, and buying from them puts money straight into the local economy. Carry small EC dollar notes, as card machines are rare.

A cool box with water, fruit and sandwiches takes the pressure off. You can then treat any restaurant meal as a bonus rather than a necessity, and you will not find yourself driving hungry along unfamiliar roads looking for somewhere open.

Mistakes that spoil a cove-hopping day

Most problems come from trying to do too much or forgetting how little is provided:

• Trying to add too many stops. Three coves with time to swim beat five with time only to look.
• Arriving at the open west-facing beaches at midday without shade.
• Relying on a beach restaurant being open, especially at La Sagesse and on weekdays.
• Leaving bags visible in the car at quiet beaches.
• Driving back from St David after dark on unfamiliar roads.
• Walking through hotel grounds or private gardens to reach the sand instead of using public access.
• Forgetting to check the sea: a calm day on the west coast can still be choppy at La Sagesse.
• Skipping lunch and water. Hours of sun, swimming and driving are tiring, and dehydration makes the last stretch of the day miserable.

Frequently asked questions