The east coast is where Grenada stops looking like a resort brochure and starts looking like a working island: rainforest on the mountain pass, a market town, nutmeg and cocoa country, a rum distillery driven by a water wheel and, at the end of it, a reef-sheltered beach with Atlantic surf on the other side of the rock. Done as a loop, it is one of the best days you can have on the main island.
It is also a day that goes wrong when people underestimate the roads. Distances on the map look tiny; driving times do not. This plan gives a realistic route, how long each leg takes, where to stop and the timing that gets you back to the south-west before dark.
Which way round: the logic of the loop
There are two ways to reach Bathway and the north-east from St George's. One crosses the central mountains past Grand Etang to Grenville, then runs north up the Atlantic side. The other follows the leeward coast through Gouyave and Victoria to Sauteurs, then cuts east. Doing one out and the other back turns a long drive into a full circuit of the northern half of the island without repeating a single mile.
The case for going out via Grand Etang is light and timing. The mountain road is best in the morning, before afternoon cloud settles on the ridge and showers set in. Grenville is busiest and most interesting early. And you reach Bathway around midday, when the beach has its best combination of swimming and shade, then drive home down the leeward coast with the sun setting over the sea ahead of you. Going the other way round works, but you climb the mountain in the afternoon rain and arrive back through the interior after dark.
The route, leg by leg
Times assume a confident driver in a hire car, light traffic and short stops. Add generously for photographs, lunch and wrong turns.
- St George's to Grand Etang (about 30 to 40 minutes). The road climbs steeply out of town through St Paul's and up into the forest reserve. At the top, the Grand Etang visitor area and the crater lake make a good first stop; mona monkeys are sometimes seen near the road. Expect mist and cooler air.
- Grand Etang to Grenville (about 30 to 40 minutes). The descent towards the east coast is winding and narrow, with views opening out over St Andrew. In Grenville, walk the seafront and market, buy water and snacks and fill the tank.
- Grenville to Pearls and River Antoine (about 20 to 30 minutes). Head north past the old Pearls airstrip beside the sea. River Antoine Rum Distillery, still driven by a historic water wheel, is a short detour inland; check whether tours are running on the day.
- River Antoine to Lake Antoine and Bathway (about 15 to 25 minutes). Lake Antoine, a shallow crater lake ringed by farmland, is minutes away. From there, continue through River Sallee to Bathway Beach.
- Bathway (two to three hours). Swim in the reef pool, eat, rest in the shade and, if you have energy, walk over towards Levera.
- Bathway to Sauteurs (about 20 to 30 minutes). Stop at Leapers' Hill and the church above the bay for the view north to the Grenadines.
- Sauteurs to St George's via the leeward coast (about 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 45 minutes). Through Victoria, Gouyave and the fishing villages, with the sunset ahead of you.
Timing the day so it does not unravel
Leave the south-west by eight. That puts you on the mountain in clear morning conditions, in Grenville while the market is still lively and at Bathway in time for a long midday break. Aim to leave Bathway by about three, which gives you time for Sauteurs and a relaxed drive down the west coast, arriving back around sunset. Sunset in Grenada falls between roughly twenty to six in winter and just after half past six in midsummer, and dusk is short at this latitude.
Build the day around the beach rather than trying to see everything. River Antoine, Belmont Estate, Lake Antoine, Levera and the River Sallee springs are all within a few miles of each other, and trying to fit every one in before a swim means you arrive at Bathway hot, tired and with an hour to spare. Pick two stops on the way and keep the rest for another day.
If you are not driving, a taxi or private tour can do the same loop. Agree the route, the stops and the total time in advance, including how long the driver will wait at the beach, and confirm whether the price is in EC or US dollars.
Swapping stops: Belmont Estate, Levera and the springs
The route above is a template, and the stops are interchangeable. Belmont Estate, in the hills of St Patrick between Grenville and Sauteurs, is a long-established cocoa estate where visitors can see beans being fermented and dried on large wooden trays, learn how cocoa moves from pod to chocolate and eat a Grenadian lunch. It suits a group more interested in food and history than in rum, and fits naturally between Pearls and Bathway.
Levera is the obvious addition for walkers. Driving or walking on from Bathway, you reach a long, empty Atlantic beach with Sugar Loaf island offshore and a mangrove pond behind. It adds an hour at least, and the track condition varies, so decide on the day. The River Sallee springs, where gas bubbles through cold pools, take ten minutes and are best visited quietly.
If you have a second day, split the loop: one day for the east via Grand Etang, Grenville and Bathway and back the same way, another for the leeward coast to Sauteurs with Gouyave, Victoria and their beaches. The driving is gentler and every stop gets its proper time.
Food, fuel and toilets along the way
Fuel. Fill up in St George's or Grenville. Petrol stations become scarce north of Grenville and on the north coast, and running low on winding hill roads is stressful.
Food. Grenville has bakeries, roti shops and supermarkets. Belmont Estate serves lunch on some days if you plan ahead, and Bathway has small vendors whose hours vary. Packing a cooler with water, fruit and sandwiches takes the pressure off.
Toilets. Reliable options are the Grand Etang visitor area when staffed, cafés and shops in Grenville, paid attractions such as the distillery or estate when open, and the Bathway facility building during the day. Between those, there is very little.
Cash. Carry Eastern Caribbean dollars in small notes. Rural vendors, beach bars and some attractions prefer cash, and card machines are not guaranteed outside the towns.
Phone signal. Coverage is generally good along the main roads, but patchy in the forest and in some north-east valleys. Download offline navigation before leaving.
Mistakes that spoil the east coast day
Almost every bad east coast day comes from the same handful of errors, all avoidable.
- Starting at ten. A late start compresses everything and puts you on unlit roads after dark.
- Trusting the navigation app's times. Grenadian hill roads are slower than any app estimates; add a third.
- Taking the shortcut. Apps sometimes route through steep, narrow farm roads. Stick to the main roads unless you know the area.
- Swimming everywhere you stop. Only Bathway, in the reef pool, is a dependable swim on this route. Grenville Bay, Pearls and Levera are for looking.
- Forgetting the sargassum question. In heavy seaweed years, ask about conditions the night before; the drive is still worthwhile, but you may want to swim on the leeward side on the way home.
- Driving after rum tasting. River Antoine's rum is famously strong. If the driver tastes, someone else drives the rest of the loop.
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take to drive around Grenada?
A full loop of the northern half of the main island, via Grand Etang, Grenville, Bathway and the leeward coast, takes around four to five hours of actual driving. With stops for a swim, lunch and sights, plan on a full day of eight to ten hours.
Is it better to go to the east coast via Grand Etang or the west coast?
For a loop, going out via Grand Etang in the morning is usually best: the mountain road is clearer early, Grenville is livelier, and you return down the leeward coast with the sunset ahead. Either direction works if you start early.
Can you do the east coast by bus?
Yes, with patience. Route buses run from St George's to Grenville and from St George's to Sauteurs, and local buses link villages in between. Changing buses and walking the last stretch to Bathway takes time, and evening services are thin, so it suits a slow day rather than a loop.
Is driving in Grenada difficult?
Driving is on the left, roads are narrow and winding, with steep hills, open drains beside the road and buses stopping suddenly. Visitors need a local driving permit, which car hire companies usually arrange. Drive slowly, use your horn on blind bends and avoid driving after dark.
Where can you swim on the east coast?
The most dependable swim is the reef-sheltered pool at Bathway Beach, which has lifeguards during the day. Most other east coast beaches face open Atlantic surf and currents. If conditions are rough or seaweed is heavy, plan a swim on the leeward coast on the way back.
